Here are some easy at home repair options.
Aquaseal FD is a clear, waterproof adhesive that can patch rips, holes and seams. Once dried the material is flexible rubber that can bend and move with the material it is bonded to. Can be used with the cure accelerant(formally known as Cotol) for fast drying for quick repairs. Use multiple layers to build up durability in easy to puncture areas such as glove finger tips.
Best for repairs that require a flexible waterproof seal. Works on Neoprene, rubber, nylon, canvas and vinyl
Instructions for use:
1. Clean and dry the material, make sure there is no dirt, sand, oils or salt residue. Have the material on a level hard surface and use latex gloves to protect your skin.
2. If repairing a hole or puncture create a backing with tape to ensure the Aquaseal FD does not spread to other areas.
3. If using with cure accelerator mix 3-4 parts Aquaseal FD to 1 part cure accelerator in a plastic container.
4. Fill hole spreading the Aquaseal FD past the damaged area at least 1/2"or 12mm. For large punctures or high use area more layers may be required. Allow each layer to cure before adding more layers of Aquaseal FD
5. Keep level until fully cured which is 8 to 12 hours or 2 hours when used with cure accelerator.
Aquaseal NEO(formally called Seal Cement) is a durable contact cement. Bonds materials together best for rips, seam splits and tears. Used for replacing latex wrist, neck and ankle seals on most dry suits. Fast drying for quick repairs.
Best for repairs on bonding different materials together such as Neoprene, rubber and latex.
Instructions for use:
1. Clean and dry the area. Make sure there is no debris or old glue from previous repairs. Wear gloves for your protection
2. Apply a thin layer of the cement on both edges of a tear and dry for 5 minutes or until tacky. Apply a second coat and dry for 10 minutes.
3. Press and hold edges or materials together and allow to dry for 20 minutes.
Tip: When using with latex seals you should lightly rough the surface with sand paper where the contact cement will be applied on both the suit and the seal.
Aquaseal FD | Aquaseal NEO | |
Material | Thermoset Urethane | Heat resistant contact cement |
Color | Clear | Black |
Cure time | 8-12 hours(2 hours with Cure accelerator) | 20 minutes |
Recommend use | Neoprene wetsuit repair, fishing wader's, neoprene gloves, booties, dry suit seams | Bonding seams on neoprene rubber, gloves, booties spray skirts, replacing latex seals on dry suit |
I normally use a very large, heavy semi-professional video camera rig with a tray, arms, and underwater video lights. So the comparison of price, size, weight, and technology is from one extreme to the other. But it's getting close to 10 years old and while it can do 4K and has a lot of advanced features, I'm kinda getting tired of lugging it through airports and on dive boats. So I was very curious to see what my new smartphone could do to keep up with my "big" camera system.
Keep it mind, the Sportdiver housing is a "housing" that goes over your smartphone. So the camera capabilities are 100% dependend on your phone and what it can do.
My analysis is based on the Apple iPhone 14 smartphone with the Sealife Sportdiver housing and no lights (I wanted the system as "naked" as possible to see what it can do). If you're curious about what your phone can do, download the Sportdiver app and you can play around with the app on the surface before purchasing housing.
Lens: My phone has a wide, telephoto, triple, and ultra wide lens. I mostly left it on wide but did play with the other lenses underwater. I was most satisfied with what I got with the wide lens. On a wreck dive, I did switch to ultra wide for a nice shot of the entire wreck but it did have a bit of a blurry vignette along the edges.
Focus: There is auto and manual focus. I left it on auto focus and found that it did a pretty good job focusing on the subject. Like most cameras with auto focus, it did struggle a bit if there was lots of stuff in the field of view but overall did quite well. I would like to play around more with the manual focus option.
Battery Power: Once you're in the Sportdiver app, your phone should just go to sleep with the ability to wake it back up by touching a button on the housing. I was surprised that the phone battery did not get eaten up as quickly as I anticipated and I was able to go most of the day with my phone inside the housing.
White Balance: Not a huge fan of the white balance feature on this phone, but the fact that it has manual white balance is a plus. It takes a bit of practice and playing around to get the hang of it, but will be worth the effort. This is the one thing that I tell people to always learn how to do with any camera, as it will make the most difference in the quality of your photos and videos. White balancing essentially tells the camera what the color "white" looks like, and then from there it extrapolates what the other colors of the rainbow look like. So instead of things looking "blue", you should get a closer match to the correct colors with white balancing.
Tint: This dials in the white balance a bit more. Definitely something to play with along with the white balance feature.
EV: Stands for "exposure value" and is great if you're in a low light or bright light environment.
All in all, I was very impressed with the quality of photos and videos that I got with my phone. There are definitely some differences between the phone and my "big" camera system. But phone technology has come such a long way that it's getting more difficult to justify spending thousands of dollars on a camera system that will provide similar results. I would recommend adding one or two video lights, but practicing with just the housing for a couple of dive trips is also recommended.
Do I recommend the Sealife Sportdiver housing? You bet! It's coming with me on my next vacation.
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Getting you to and from your dive destination, whether that is by plane, train, or automobile. A large travel bag can be a roller bag, large duffel, or backpack.
For roller bags, the advantage is that it has wheels and a telescoping handle making running through airports quick and easy. Downside, they tend to be heavy and clunky so you need to be careful that you don't exceed maximum size/weight limits. Because they tend to start off with a bit of weight (even when empty), this means less gear to pack inside before hitting those limits.
Advantage of a large duffel, they are usually lightweight and can easily fold up for storage when not in use. Downside, you're carrying it by the handles which can be awkward and tiring.
For a large backpack, these tend to be more lightweight to start off with so more gear to pack inside. It's easy to run through airports without having to wheel something behind you, around corners, and through doorways. Also great as a second bag along with a roller bag so you're not trying to maneuver two roller bags at the same time. Downside, can be a bit straining on the back after a while.
Meant to keep the contents "dry", you need to be careful because they're usually not meant to be dry while being submerged underwater. They're more for protecting items from splashes, waves, accidentally dropping in the water, and for that annoying puddle of water that always seems to be right where you put your stuff. Dry bags can come in different sizes including small dry wallets for money and credit cards. It's nice to have a variety of dry bags for different occasions. For example, a day at the beach versus a day on the boat will require different items to stay dry.
A bit different than a dry bag because they are solid and may have a more waterproof seal that can withstand partial or full submerging. Be careful if you're planning to scuba dive with a dry case to ensure that it is also pressure rated. What might keep something sealed while snorkeling might implode from the increase in pressure while scuba diving. A small dry case is great for keeping valuables dry and safe, such as eyeglasses or sunglasses.
Because the mesh allows for airflow, a mesh duffel or backpack is great for stowing your wet gear after snorkeling or scuba diving. You can even dunk or rinse the gear while in the bag and then let it drip dry. We do not recommend using a mesh bag as a checked bag at the airport as it is very obvious what is inside and will likely grow legs really quick!
If you dive locally then you'll be familiar with having to carry 20+ pounds of lead to the dive site. Awkward and heavy little buggers, it's nice to tote them in a bag made specifically for heavy lead.
Purchasing regulators is a large investment so keeping them safe while traveling or in storage is very important. Most regulator bags will have some padding to protect the contents. Many divers will carry their regs on the plane so it's nice if you can fit a few extra items in your regulator bag for the flight.
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Once you have some experience, you may be looking at adding lights and strobes to your camera. There are a variety of options when it comes to lights, trays, arms, clamps, etc. Here are things you need to consider when choosing the best option:
1 - Choose your lights
2 - Choose your tray, arms, clamps, etc
3 - Check what mounts and adapters already come with the lights you have choosen or what is required
Here are some of our favorite setups to give you some ideas.
Sealife Flex-Connect System
So many different options that you can add and rearrange as you do different types of diving or upgrade your system. Check out our Blog with more info on the flex connect system and what each part is used for.
Photos: Sealife Flex-Connect trays, arms. Sealife lights.
Big Blue
More options for photo/video lighting with Big Blue. Contact us for pricing and information beyond what we have on our website.
Photos: Big Blue trays & arms with Big Blue lights. Big Blue trays, arms, clamps with Sealife lights.
Light & Motion
Sola lights, for diving and photography, continue to be our best selling light. Several options have both flood and spot beams making them perfect for underwater photo/video along with night diving or poking in cracks & crevices.
Light & Motion Trays & Adapters
Photos: Light & Motion tray with Sola lights. Big Blue tray, arms, and clamps with Sola lights.
]]>"In an emergency, oxygen first aid can improve outcomes... Are you equipped? Oxygen first aid is the first line of treatment for both decompression sickness (DCS) and arterial gas embolism (AGE). The general recommendation is that all divers displaying symptoms that could indicate decompression illness be given first aid oxygen on the surface; breathing pure oxygen may help alleviate and even resolve symptoms of DCS."
The RescuEAN Pod is a life-saving product that delivers nitrox and decompression gas oxygen mixes safely in a constant flow to an injured diver in accordance with the standards of current best clinical practice. It can be used for both conscious and unconscious casualties, as well as those individuals who deteriorate into cardiac arrest and require resuscitation prior to the arrival of emergency medical services.
The RescuEAN Pod system is lightweight, compact, and easily recognizable in bright orange. Constructed of 316 marine grade stainless steel, ABS plastic, nylon, and rubber making the pod robust and corrosion-resistant. There are no lubricants used within the pod and the orings within the valve system are those recommended for use with medical and oxygen equipment. It is simple to use and very effective, making it easy to pack in a gear bag or your travel bag when going on vacation. It is small enough to be carried underwater during your dive (shore or cave diving) or be left ready for immediate use for shore or boat diving.
The Pod may be beneficial in all emergencies, it is particularly effective:
The Pod has been designed for use with a casualty whether they are conscious, semi-conscious, or unconscious. Once set up, the high oxygen mix that is available can be given to a non-responsive casualty via a bag valve mask or via a pocket mask with an oxygen inlet. For responsive patients, a high concentration oxygen (non-rebreather) mask can be used. The Pod's internal valve controls the airflow between 0, 15, and purge (25 LPM).
The Pod quickly attaches to a standard power inflator hose found on scuba diving regulator sets which is attached to a cylinder with a higher concentration of oxygen, for example nitrox or decompression gases.
]]>Pre-made, tempered-glass optical lenses for your snorkeling or dive mask can make a huge difference in your level of enjoyment while snorkeling or scuba diving. The pre-made lenses are not your exact prescription, but for most people they are close enough that the difference is nearly unnoticeable for the short time that you're wearing them in the water. Custom tempered-glass lenses are also available when you want a more exact lens or your prescription is too complicated for the pre-made lenses. Custom lenses are more expensive and take more time to manufacture, so considering the pre-made option first is always recommended.
"But I know nothing about reading my eye prescription!" No problem, let us help you figure it out...
First of all, you will need a copy of your eye prescription from your eye doctor (not your contact lens precsription, this is different).
Secondly, consider what you are using the mask for: snorkeling or scuba diving. If you're snorkeling (or swimming), don't worry about seeing close-up (unless you're using a camera). For scuba diving, you will need to consider your distance vision as well as close-up in order to read your gauges, dive computer, or camera.
I can see close-up, but not distance:
I can see far away, but not close-up:
I can see ok overall, but I am unable to read my gauges or use my camera:
I can't see distance nor close-up:
WIDE ANGLE LENS | CLOSE-UP LENS | SUPER MACRO LENS |
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Let's start with a few definitions for a better understanding of what the lenses are doing...
Field of View - Imagine you're on land trying to take a photo of a large group of people. You can't get them all in the shot, so you back up a bit in order to get them all into the camera's field of view. Under water it works the same way, except the further you are from your subject, the more water that is between your camera lens and the subject. More water equals more backscatter (those pesky particles in the water that show up in your photo/video) and less light on your subject. Increasing your field of view will allow you to get closer to your subject without cutting off the edge of your subject.
Focus Range - How close you can get to your subject before it gets out of focus. You may not notice it out of focus when taking the photo/video because the screen on your camera is so small. But once you look at it on a larger screen, such as a computer or TV, then you'll notice it out of focus. Adding the external lens will allow you to get closer to your subject and remain in focus.
Straight Line Distortion - Because the lens will focus more in the centre and lens on the edge, it can sometimes cause straight lines to appear "bent" or "curved". This may not be an issue with most underwater subjects, but it will be noticeable with the straight lines of the waterline, a shipwreck, the seabed, etc. Different lenses will have varying degrees of this distortion.
MICRO 3.0 | With No Lens | Wide Angle Lens | Close-Up Lens | Super Macro Lens |
Field of View:
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100°
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143°
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less than 100°
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less than 100°
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Focus Range:
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15" to infinity
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5" to infinity
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6-24" underwater
3-6" above water |
4-6" underwater
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Straight Line Distortion:
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none
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minimal
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yes
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yes
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RM4K | With No Lens | Wide Angle Lens | Close-Up Lens | Super Macro Lens |
Field of View:
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100°-156°
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196°
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more than 100°
with silhouette |
more than 100°
with silhouette |
Focus Range:
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12" to infinity
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4" to infinity
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6-24" underwater
3-6" above water |
3.5-7" underwater
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Straight Line Distortion:
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none
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minimal
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yes
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yes
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Lens Caddy - Secure your lens to your camera setup when not in use
Lens Pouch - Safely store your lens while in storage or transit
]]>A great example is Maui who has now banned the use of all non-mineral sunscreens. The only sunscreen allowed are made with non-nanotized zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. Hawaii is one of the most isolated archipelagos on earth and home to a variety of unique marine life and corals. But Hawaii is not alone, many other countries have enacted similar policies and it is only a matter of time before this becomes the norm around the world and especially in high-tourist areas where sunscreen use is prevalent.
What ingredients are considered "unsafe"? Some of the ingredients that you'll want to check the label for include: oxybenzone, butyloctyl salicylate, octocrylene, octinoxate, SLS, parabens, artificial fragrances.
Why is there a need for change? Many studies have shown that certain chemicals that have been traditionally found in sunscreens can cause coral bleaching & DNA damage, decreased fertility and reproduction in fish, and accumulation of chemicals in the tissues of dolphins and other mammals that can then be transferred to their young.
Are their other options? Yes, glad that you asked! You can safeguard your skin from damaging UV rays by seeking shade when available and wearing UV protective clothing. There are a variety of UV shirts and rashguards that provide 50+ UV protection and are as comfortable as wearing a regular cotton tshirt (which, by the way, does not provide the same sun protection). The variety and selection of acceptable sunscreen is increasing as awareness and demand continue to rise.
Check out our selection of products:
]]>Living on the boat for a week or longer and all you do is wake up, eat, dive, have a snack, maybe take a nap, dive, eat, dive, nap, dive, eat, sleep. Next day: repeat! It's a great way to do a ton of diving and see all the great sites that are not easily accessible.
The best thing about a liveaboard is that you "live" on the boat for the entire trip! The downside of a liveaboard is that you "live" on the boat the entire trip. In other words, it's got it's pros and it's cons. The biggest challenge is ensuring that you haven't forgotten any much-needed gear or accessories for your trip because they likely won't have spares onboard.
Here is a list of some important things to bring with you:
~ Save-a-Dive Kit - If you don't need it, at some point your dive buddy will so you'll be saving the day for someone.
~ Dive Alert - Super loud! Great to get your buddy's attention underwater, or someone at the surface.
~ Nautilus Lifeline - Get the boat's attention and send out your GPS location in an emergency. This is the piece of gear that you hope you never need to use!
~ Dive Reel & Marker Buoy - Let surface traffic know where your location underwater.
~ Reef Hook - Very handy to have if you end up in an area with lots of current.
~ Reuasable Water Bottle - Handy for travel through airports and on the plane. Avoid one-use cups on the boat.
~ Spring Straps - Getting your fins off at the surface before you board the boat can be an exercise of precise timing. Don't mess around with a traditional strap/buckle setup. Spring straps are the way to go!
~ UV Sun Shirt - Stay protected from the sun while being environmentally friendly by using a reusable product.
~ UV Neck Protection - Whether it's sitting on the boat waiting to enter the water, or while you're snorekeling, this will protect your neck and face from unwanted sunburns.
~ Sunscreen - When the most reef-friendly sunscreen is required, this is the stuff you want.
~ Marker Light - Adds to your visibility to other divers while night diving and even during the daytime.
~ Flexsafe - Keep your valuables safe and secure.
]]>"Life changing" is how most divers will describe switching from traditional rubber fin straps to spring straps. Why are spring straps so much better than the traditional, rubber straps?
Bottom line, less struggling to get your fins on and off!
How do spring straps works:
What models of spring straps are available:
How to choose the model of spring strap:
Remove your existing fin clips from your fins. This may include unclipping your strap (if it's a quick release design) and then removing the plastic clip from the fin. Check the design of the round knob on the fin to see which style of spring strap will work the best.
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