Whether you’re a brand-new recreational diver or someone planning more advanced underwater adventures, understanding the differences can help you choose the best scuba diving BCD for your needs.

What Is a Jacket Style BCD?

A jacket style buoyancy compensator device (BCD) is the classic scuba diving setup most divers learn with during certification courses. The air bladder wraps around the sides and back of the diver, creating a comfortable and familiar fit.

Jacket BCDs are popular because they are:

• Easy to use for beginner divers
• Comfortable on the surface
• Designed with lots of pockets and attachment points
• Widely available at dive shops and resorts

For recreational scuba diving, a jacket BCD offers a stable and user-friendly experience. Many divers appreciate how secure and supportive it feels while floating at the surface before or after a dive.

However, jacket BCDs can sometimes feel bulky underwater. Because air expands around the torso, some divers notice a “squeeze” feeling when fully inflated. The extra material and padding can also create more drag while swimming underwater.

What Is a Wing and Backplate System?

A wing and backplate BCD uses a completely different design. Instead of wrapping air around the diver, the inflatable wing sits entirely behind the diver’s back. The system is paired with a rigid backplate, usually made from aluminum or stainless steel, and simple webbing harness straps.

Wing systems have become increasingly popular in recreational, technical scuba diving, sidemount diving, and travel diving because of their streamlined design and modular setup.

Benefits of a wing and backplate include:

• Improved underwater trim and buoyancy control
• A more streamlined profile underwater
• Less drag while swimming
• Customizable and modular components which are often replaceable with wear and tear
• Excellent durability for long-term use

Many experienced divers love the “floating in space” feeling a wing setup creates underwater. Because the buoyancy is positioned behind you, it naturally encourages a horizontal trim position that improves air consumption and finning efficiency.

The modular design also means you can upgrade or replace individual components rather than replacing the entire BCD. Think of it as the LEGO® version of scuba diving gear — customizable, adaptable, and built for adventure.

If you want something in-between a jacket and wing & backplate, check out the back-inflation BCD’s that offer a similar back-only wing design, but with the straps and comfort of a jacket-style BCD.

Which Scuba Diving BCD Is Best?

The truth is there’s no universal “best” BCD — it depends on the type of diving you plan to do.

A jacket style BCD is often ideal for:

• Beginner scuba divers
• Casual vacation divers
• Divers who prioritize surface comfort
• Rental and resort diving

A wing and backplate system may be better for:

• Divers wanting better trim underwater
• Technical or advanced scuba diving
• Travel divers looking for lightweight options
• Divers wanting a minimalist, streamlined setup

Many divers eventually transition from a jacket BCD to a wing and backplate as they gain experience and refine their underwater skills.

Final Thoughts

Both jacket style BCDs and wing and backplate systems can provide safe, comfortable, and enjoyable scuba diving experiences. The best choice comes down to personal preference, diving goals, and comfort in the water.

If possible, try both styles before making a decision. Your perfect scuba diving setup should feel comfortable, balanced, and ready for every underwater adventure — from coral reefs and tropical snorkeling trips to deep wreck dives and cold-water exploration.

After all, the best BCD is the one that makes you excited to giant stride into the next underwater adventure.

Snorkeling is often seen as one of the easiest ways to explore the underwater world. At first glance, it seems straightforward—put on a mask and snorkel, step into the water, and start swimming. While snorkeling can indeed be simple and relaxing, a safe and enjoyable experience depends on following a few important guidelines. With the right preparation, equipment, and awareness, you can make the most of your time in the water while protecting both yourself and the marine environment.

Below are some key do’s and don’ts to help ensure your snorkeling adventures are comfortable, safe, and memorable.

Do’s

1. Invest in Quality Gear and Practice Before Your Trip

One of the most common frustrations snorkelers face is arriving at their vacation destination only to discover that their gear doesn’t fit properly or that they forgot an important piece of equipment. Taking the time to purchase reliable gear and becoming familiar with it beforehand can save you a lot of stress.

Mask
Choose a mask made with high-grade silicone. Silicone is more maliable to adjust to your face, making the mask both more comfortable and less likely to leak. It’s also important to ensure that the mask lens is made from tempered safety glass. Tempered glass is more durable, resists scratching, and tends to fog less than cheaper alternatives.

Snorkel
Comfort matters when it comes to your snorkel. Look for one with a soft silicone mouthpiece to prevent jaw fatigue during longer swims. The clip that attaches the snorkel to your mask should be secure but easy to remove. A good design allows you to attach or detach the snorkel quickly without worrying about it falling off during use.

Fins
Fins come in a wide range of styles and sizes, much like shoes. Because of this, “one-size-fits-all” options rarely provide the best fit. Try fins on before purchasing them and look for a snug fit that won’t easily slip off but also doesn’t feel tight or restrictive. Some fins are designed to be worn with beach shoes or wetsuit boots while others are designed to be worn with barefoot or socks only. Make sure you get the one appropriate for your needs.

Snorkeling Vest (Flotation Device)
Many snorkeling tours require the use of a snorkeling vest. These flotation devices are also a great option for individuals who are less confident swimmers. Unlike traditional life jackets, snorkeling vests allow you to float comfortably at the surface while lying face down in the water. They can make the experience much more relaxing, especially for beginners. Most snorkel vests are inflatable and can be deflated to make it easier to pack.

Before heading out on your trip, test your equipment at a local pool or lake during warmer months. Practicing beforehand helps you learn how to properly adjust your mask and fins while allowing your leg muscles to adapt to fin kicking. Some Scuba dive shops even offer snorkeling lessons if you want additional guidance from an instructor.

2. Always Snorkel with a Buddy

Snorkeling should never be a solo activity. Even experienced swimmers can encounter unexpected situations such as fatigue, strong currents, or equipment issues. Having a buddy nearby ensures that someone can assist if help is needed.

For more advanced snorkelers who enjoy diving down and holding their breath, it is especially important that someone remains at the surface. This is a critical safety measure in case of a shallow water blackout or other underwater emergency.

Beyond safety, snorkeling with a partner simply makes the experience more enjoyable. Sharing the excitement of spotting colorful fish, coral formations, or other marine life adds to the adventure.

3. Protect Yourself from the Sun

Sunburn is one of the most common injuries among snorkelers. Because much of your body remains at the water’s surface for extended periods, it is easy to underestimate sun exposure.

While sunscreen may seem like the obvious solution, many common sunscreens contain chemicals that can harm coral reefs and marine ecosystems. Instead, the best approach is to physically cover your skin or use a reef safe sunscreen.

Rash guards, also known as sun shirts, typically offer built-in SPF 50 protection and are lightweight enough for warm water environments. They can also help protect against jellyfish stings, scrapes, and minor abrasions.

Wetsuits are a excellent option for cooler water or for longer snorkeling sessions. Wetsuits provide both sun protection and thermal insulation, helping you stay comfortable in the water for longer periods.

Reef Safe sunscreen is available in various options. Don't just pick biodegradable but look for reef safe tested, mineral based and non-nano particle. 

Don’ts

1. Don’t Touch Marine Life

One of the most important rules of snorkeling is simple: look, but don’t touch. Coral reefs and many marine species are extremely fragile. Touching them can cause permanent damage to delicate ecosystems.

Additionally, some creatures may defend themselves if disturbed. Even animals that appear harmless can deliver painful stings or bites. If you leave marine life undisturbed, you’ll protect both the environment and yourself.

2. Don’t Swim Using Your Hands

Many beginners instinctively try to swim with their arms while snorkeling. However, this is inefficient and can quickly lead to fatigue. Fins are designed to provide the majority of your propulsion, allowing you to move through the water smoothly with gentle kicks.

Keeping your hands relaxed at your sides also reduces the chance of accidentally hitting your snorkeling partner or damaging coral.

3. Don’t Ignore Your Environment

Before entering the water, always take time to understand your surroundings. Check the weather forecast and be aware of tides and currents, as conditions can change quickly in coastal environments.

It’s also wise to familiarize yourself with local regulations. Some snorkeling locations, particularly those within marine parks or protected areas, may require permits or park passes. Respecting these rules helps preserve the natural beauty that makes snorkeling so special.

Final Thoughts

Snorkeling offers an incredible opportunity to observe marine life and explore underwater environments with minimal equipment and training. By investing in quality gear, snorkeling with a partner, protecting yourself from the sun, and respecting the ocean’s delicate ecosystems, you can enjoy a safe and unforgettable experience.

With just a little preparation and awareness, snorkeling truly can be as simpl and as magical as it first appears.

1. How long does a mask last?

A good quality mask will often last 15-20 years or longer with simple care and proper storage. Look for a mask made with high grade or Crystal silicone with tempered safety glass lens.

2. How to store a mask?

You should rinse your mask with fresh water after every use and allow to air dry. Every few uses wash with a mild soap such as dish soap, warm water and a cloth or soft bristle brush. Store your mask in a cool, dry place preferably in a mask case. Do not leave your mask in the sun for long periods of time. The silicone strap and skirt can seem an attractive chew toy to animals so keep it away from animals.

3. My mask always gets foggy, what can I do?

New masks need a thorough wash before use to remove any residue left from manufacturing. Wash with hot water, dish soap and a soft cloth or brush (old toothbrush). Wash and rinse with hot tap water a couple of times. Masks will also need to be washed regularly to remove dust, dirt, salt and oils from your skin. Once your mask is clean you can treat it with a de-fogging agent such as spit or Seagold. Defog is most effective when applied to a dry mask right before use.

4. The clear silicone around my mask has turned yellow or cloudy, what do I do?

This color change is a natural occurrence in crystal silicone. It will not change the performance of your mask the change is only cosmetic. To help slow this process you can keep your mask out of direct sunlight when possible. Wash your mask regularly, and store your mask clean in a case in a cool, dry place. Masks made with colored silicone such as black silicone will not have this issue.

5. My mask leaks, do I need to replace it?

There are several reasons a mask leaks. Hair getting under the mask skirt will allow the water to trickle in, this includes facial hair. Make sure your hair is pulled back away from your face. Hoods, hats or caps if worn under the mask skirt will cause the same problem. Over-tightening the mask strap is often a problem as it compresses the mask so tightly onto your face that the mask skirt cannot lay flat against your skin and create a seal. Fit and size of the mask is important as they are not a one size fits all, a mask that is too big or too small will leak as well as be uncomfortable. Lastly check for damage, cracks in the frame due to damage will leak. If your mask is leaking due to facial hair, you can also try using a mustache mask seal.

6. What do I tell if a mask fits me?

It does not matter if it is the most expensive mask or best reviewed mask the most important thing is fit. When trying on a mask for fit test it without the strap, breathe in through your nose checking for leaks. If the mask is air tight is should also be water tight. Also check for pressure points if the mask frame is resting on the corners of your eyes, on the bridge of your nose or forehead it may become uncomfortable over the length of a dive.

7. Is there a mask I can wear over my glasses?

The arms of your glasses will cause the mask to flood, without the arms the glasses don't tend to stay in place well. However there are great options now with pre-made prescription dive mask that only take minutes to install. For more check out our page on optical masks

SL053 - 6" Wide Angle Dome Lens (more info)

• Snaps on directly to the housing's lens port, fits the Sportdiver and Sportdiver ULTRA
• Increases the field of view by 40% so you can get closer to your subject and still fit everything in the image frame
• Getting close to the subject and having a wide field of view is an advantage for shooting wrecks and other large subjects because less water (and particles) between your camera lens and subject means less backscatter in your image and better lighting if using external video lights
• Particularly good for doing split shots that split the topside view with the undersea view
• Works great with the ultra-wide phone lens by widening the field of view compared with no lens
• Also performs well with the telephoto phone lens by zooming in without having to get closer
• Made of high-grade acrylic optics arranged in a 2-element/2-group array for crisp edge-to-edge sharpness
• The sun shield rotates to accommodate the Sportdiver and Sportdiver ULTRA housings
• Has aproximately 15.6mm film-equivalent effective focal length 
• Waterproof to 130ft/40m and is positively buoyant

Within 12 inches of the subject, the telephoto setting is better at focusing on small objects (good for up close & macro) compared to having no lens. With the ultra wide setting, the lens brings the subject closer while widening the field of view with more of the subject in the shot (good for large wrecks or other large marine life).

All Photos taken 12 inches from the subject using an iPhone 14 Pro

SL054 + SL081 -  52mm Wide Angle Dome Lens with Housing Adapter (more info)

• The lens has 52mm thread mount fits a variety of cameras and housings with a 52mm thread mount and will fit on the Sportdiver and Sportdiver ULTRA housings with the Sealife Sportdiver Lens Adapter
• Increases the field of view by 43% so you can get 2x closer to your subject and still fit everything in the image frame
• Great for getting up close to wrecks or other large subjects and not cutting off the subject because you are too close
• Performs well with the wide angle phone setting when doing macro and other small subjects by focusing on the subject
• Made of high-grade optics arranged in a 4-element/4-group array that delivers crisp edge-to-edge sharpness
• The internal elements are multi-coated optical glass and the dome lens is polycarbonate with hard, anti-scratch coating
• Has approximatley 18.2mm film-equivalent effective focal length
• Waterproof to 200ft/60m and is negatively buoyant

Within 6 inches, subjects appear closer and more in focus with the lens (good for macro). Further away, the lens brings the subject closer while widening the field of view with more of the subject in the shot (good for large wrecks or other large marine life). Very high grade quality of lens and optics.

All Photos taken 16-2 inches from the subject using an iPhone 14 Pro

Before you head out for a dive be sure to check over your dive gear to ensure it's in good working order once your local dive season gets underway. Contact your local dive shop for assistance with any maintenance or repairs that you think your gear may need. In the meantime, here is a quick checklist of things you can do to prepare:

Gear Checklist:

• Scuba Tanks - Need to be visually inspected every year and hydrostatically tested every 5 years.
• Regulators - Check your manufacturer’s user manual for recommendations specific to your brand or model of regulator. If you're not sure, a good rule of thumb is usually about every 2 years or 100 dives, which ever comes first. In the meantime, check your mouthpiece to ensure it's still good and inspect the hoses for cracks or pin holes.
• BCD - People usually forget that they're BCD needs some tender loving care as well. Salt, sand, and dirt can get encrusted in your power inflator buttons or over-pressure valves. Press the power inflator buttons a few times and make sure they aren’t sticky, they should push easily and not get stuck. Rips, tears, or punctures can compromise the bladder and your ability to maintain positive or even neutral buoyancy. Orally inflate your BCD using the power inflator and let it sit for at least 10 minutes filled with air. After 10 minutes, check that it is still fully inflated and there are no concerns of a leak.
• Wetsuits - Check over your wetsuit, hood, gloves, boots and inspect for any tears or rips that you forgot about from last summer. (Also check that everything still fits!)
• Drysuits - Check your drysuit for any tears or rips as well. Check the integrity of your zipper to ensure there are no issues with the teeth of the zipper or the slide. Check your neck and wrist seals to ensure they aren't ripped or dried out. Latex seals can degrade over time, with or without use, give them a stretch as they will become feel gummy or dry and crumbly as they start to degrade.(Also check that it still fits!)
• Dive Computer - Double check that your dive computer still turns on and that the battery is still good. Many dive computers have a user-changeable battery so you may be able to change the battery yourself. Take care and inspect the oring for dirt and dust. Ensure the oring and the groove are clean and free of debris. Check the manufacturer’s user manual for recommendations on how to store your dive computer.
• Masks, Snorkel, Fins - Take a look at your straps, buckles, and clips for any missing or broken parts that need replacing.
• Accessories - Give your other dive accessories a good check.... do your dive lights still charge or have good batteries? Does your SMB (surface marker buoy) still inflate and stay inflated? Check your dive reels to ensure they aren't tangled or the line is stuck together and gummed up. Check your dive knife to ensure it isn't rusty and corroded.

When choosing a dive knife, sometimes your choices are limited by price, style, and availability. But there are a few other things to consider when choosing a dive knife.

What are you going to use it for? Consider the primary use and area you will be using. For example if you're diving in an area with a lot of kelp, then a medium to large knife with a serrated edge may be helpful for freeing yourself from entanglement. An area with a lot of fishing may also have a lot of fishing line, so a knife with a line cutter hook or a scissors may be handy to have. Spear-fishers may also use the knife for fish cleaning and may want a sharper tip.

Where do you want to attach it? Small knifes may be attached to your BCD, weight belt, snorkel vest, inflator hose, gauge hose, or stored in a pocket. Larger knifes will likely be attached with straps to your leg and may be too large and cumbersome to be attached to your BCD. If wearing a knife over a thick wetsuit or drysuit make sure the straps are long enough. 

Blunt vs pointed tip? A pointed tip may be helpful for those of you who spearfish or harvest (legally of course). Blunt tips can make a handy implement such as a screwdriver or a prying device and make it less likely to accidentally puncture dive gear. 

Stainless vs titanium? High quality stainless steel such as 400 grade steel will keep a sharp edge longer but will require more maintenance. Titanium is less susceptible to corrosion, is lighter weight, but costs 30-50% more than stainless steel. With either material, look for a blade that extends through the handle for maximum strength but it is also helpful if the blade can be removed from the handle for proper cleaning.

Other options for a cutting device include sea snips (shears) or line cutters. Both make a great backup to a primary knife and are easy to travel with. The Sea Snips (shears) make a great addition to your save-a-dive kit as they come in very handy for cleaning up loose threads, fraying weight belt webbing or cutting zip ties. Both the line cutters and shears can be useful in an emergency where a diver needs to cut a wet/dry suit off to administer first aid

Basic Maintenance for your Cutting Tool
Remove from the case and rinse with fresh water after each dive. Hand dry with a towel before replacing the device in its sheath. When storing your dive knife after a dive trip, remove the blade from the handle (if applicable) and wash with warm, fresh water. Coat the blade with silicone oil after drying.

Need a fix? But what is your best option for repairing wetsuit, dry suit, gloves, wetsuit boots etc. It's not uncommon to need repairs over time and use especially on neoprene. The most popular neoprene products these days trend to the more stretchy and comfortable neoprene however the downside to this neoprene is it is easier to tear and rip. A similar problem is happening with dry suits and fishing waders, the lighter more breathable material is becoming more popular but also has less durability and less puncture resistance. 

Here are some easy at home repair options. 

Aquaseal FD is a clear, waterproof adhesive that can patch rips, holes and seams. Once dried the material is flexible rubber that can bend and move with the material it is bonded to. Can be used with the cure accelerant(formally known as Cotol) for fast drying for quick repairs. Use multiple layers to build up durability in easy to puncture areas such as glove finger tips. 

Best for repairs that require a flexible waterproof seal. Works on Neoprene, rubber, nylon, canvas and vinyl

Instructions for use:

1. Clean and dry the material, make sure there is no dirt, sand, oils or salt residue. Have the material on a level hard surface and use latex gloves to protect your skin.

2. If repairing a hole or puncture create a backing with tape to ensure the Aquaseal FD does not spread to other areas. 

3. If using with cure accelerator mix 3-4 parts Aquaseal FD to 1 part cure accelerator in a plastic container. 

4. Fill hole spreading the Aquaseal FD past the damaged area at least 1/2"or 12mm. For large punctures or high use area more layers may be required. Allow each layer to cure before adding more layers of Aquaseal FD

5. Keep level until fully cured which is 8 to 12 hours or 2 hours when used with cure accelerator.

Aquaseal NEO(formally called Seal Cement) is a durable contact cement. Bonds materials together best for rips, seam splits and tears. Used for replacing latex wrist, neck and ankle seals on most dry suits. Fast drying for quick repairs. 

Best for repairs on bonding different materials together such as Neoprene, rubber and latex.

Instructions for use:

1. Clean and dry the area. Make sure there is no debris or old glue from previous repairs. Wear gloves for your protection

2. Apply a thin layer of the cement on both edges of a tear and dry for 5 minutes or until tacky. Apply a second coat and dry for 10 minutes.

3. Press and hold edges or materials together and allow to dry for 20 minutes. 

Tip: When using with latex seals you should lightly rough the surface with sand paper where the contact cement will be applied on both the suit and the seal.

I normally use a very large, heavy semi-professional video camera rig with a tray, arms, and underwater video lights. So the comparison of price, size, weight, and technology is from one extreme to the other. But it's getting close to 10 years old and while it can do 4K and has a lot of advanced features, I'm kinda getting tired of lugging it through airports and on dive boats. So I was very curious to see what my new smartphone could do to keep up with my "big" camera system.

Keep it mind, the Sportdiver housing is a "housing" that goes over your smartphone. So the camera capabilities are 100% dependend on your phone and what it can do. 

My analysis is based on the Apple iPhone 14 smartphone with the Sealife Sportdiver housing and no lights (I wanted the system as "naked" as possible to see what it can do). If you're curious about what your phone can do, download the Sportdiver app and you can play around with the app on the surface before purchasing housing. 

Lens: My phone has a wide, telephoto, triple, and ultra wide lens. I mostly left it on wide but did play with the other lenses underwater. I was most satisfied with what I got with the wide lens. On a wreck dive, I did switch to ultra wide for a nice shot of the entire wreck but it did have a bit of a blurry vignette along the edges.

Focus: There is auto and manual focus. I left it on auto focus and found that it did a pretty good job focusing on the subject. Like most cameras with auto focus, it did struggle a bit if there was lots of stuff in the field of view but overall did quite well. I would like to play around more with the manual focus option.

Battery Power: Once you're in the Sportdiver app, your phone should just go to sleep with the ability to wake it back up by touching a button on the housing. I was surprised that the phone battery did not get eaten up as quickly as I anticipated and I was able to go most of the day with my phone inside the housing.

White Balance: Not a huge fan of the white balance feature on this phone, but the fact that it has manual white balance is a plus. It takes a bit of practice and playing around to get the hang of it, but will be worth the effort. This is the one thing that I tell people to always learn how to do with any camera, as it will make the most difference in the quality of your photos and videos. White balancing essentially tells the camera what the color "white" looks like, and then from there it extrapolates what the other colors of the rainbow look like. So instead of things looking "blue", you should get a closer match to the correct colors with white balancing.

Tint: This dials in the white balance a bit more. Definitely something to play with along with the white balance feature.

EV: Stands for "exposure value" and is great if you're in a low light or bright light environment.

All in all, I was very impressed with the quality of photos and videos that I got with my phone. There are definitely some differences between the phone and my "big" camera system. But phone technology has come such a long way that it's getting more difficult to justify spending thousands of dollars on a camera system that will provide similar results. I would recommend adding one or two video lights, but practicing with just the housing for a couple of dive trips is also recommended.

Do I recommend the Sealife Sportdiver housing? You bet! It's coming with me on my next vacation. 

Medium & Large Travel Bags

Getting you to and from your dive destination, whether that is by plane, train, or automobile. A large travel bag can be a roller bag, large duffel, or backpack. 

For roller bags, the advantage is that it has wheels and a telescoping handle making running through airports quick and easy. Downside, they tend to be heavy and clunky so you need to be careful that you don't exceed maximum size/weight limits. Because they tend to start off with a bit of weight (even when empty), this means less gear to pack inside before hitting those limits.

Advantage of a large duffel, they are usually lightweight and can easily fold up for storage when not in use. Downside, you're carrying it by the handles which can be awkward and tiring.

For a large backpack, these tend to be more lightweight to start off with so more gear to pack inside. It's easy to run through airports without having to wheel something behind you, around corners, and through doorways. Also great as a second bag along with a roller bag so you're not trying to maneuver two roller bags at the same time. Downside, can be a bit straining on the back after a while.

Dry Bags

Meant to keep the contents "dry", you need to be careful because they're usually not meant to be dry while being submerged underwater. They're more for protecting items from splashes, waves, accidentally dropping in the water, and for that annoying puddle of water that always seems to be right where you put your stuff. Dry bags can come in different  sizes including small dry wallets for money and credit cards. It's nice to have a variety of dry bags for different occasions. For example, a day at the beach versus a day on the boat will require different items to stay dry.

Dry Cases

A bit different than a dry bag because they are solid and may have a more waterproof seal that can withstand partial or full submerging. Be careful if you're planning to scuba dive with a dry case to ensure that it is also pressure rated. What might keep something sealed while snorkeling might implode from the increase in pressure while scuba diving. A small dry case is great for keeping valuables dry and safe, such as eyeglasses or sunglasses. 

Mesh Bags

Because the mesh allows for airflow, a mesh duffel or backpack is great for stowing your wet gear after snorkeling or scuba diving. You can even dunk or rinse the gear while in the bag and then let it drip dry. We do not recommend using a mesh bag as a checked bag at the airport as it is very obvious what is inside and will likely grow legs really quick! 

Weight Bags

If you dive locally then you'll be familiar with having to carry 20+ pounds of lead to the dive site. Awkward and heavy little buggers, it's nice to tote them in a bag made specifically for heavy lead. 

Regulator Bags

Purchasing regulators is a large investment so keeping them safe while traveling or in storage is very important. Most regulator bags will have some padding to protect the contents. Many divers will carry their regs on the plane so it's nice if you can fit a few extra items in your regulator bag for the flight.

Once you have some experience, you may be looking at adding lights and strobes to your camera. There are a variety of options when it comes to lights, trays, arms, clamps, etc. Here are things you need to consider when choosing the best option:

1 - Choose your  lights

2 - Choose your  tray, arms, clamps, etc

3 - Check what mounts and adapters already come with the lights you have choosen or what is required

Here are some of our favorite setups to give you some ideas.

Sealife Flex-Connect System

So many different options that you can add and rearrange as you do different types of diving or upgrade your system. Check out our  Blog with more info on the flex connect system and what each part is used for.

Sealife Lights

Sealife Flex-Connect 

Photos: Sealife Flex-Connect trays, arms. Sealife lights.

Big Blue

More options for photo/video lighting with Big Blue. Contact us for pricing and information beyond what we have on our website.

Big Blue Lights

Big Blue Trays, Arms, Clamps

Photos: Big Blue trays & arms with Big Blue lights. Big Blue trays, arms, clamps with Sealife lights.

Light & Motion

Sola lights, for diving and photography, continue to be our best selling light. Several options have both flood and spot beams making them perfect for underwater photo/video along with night diving or poking in cracks & crevices.

Light & Motion Lights

Light & Motion Trays & Adapters

Photos: Light & Motion tray with Sola lights. Big Blue tray, arms, and clamps with Sola lights.