Dive Lights

Primary lights — brightness and reliability first
A primary dive light is your main source of illumination on night dives, cave and wreck penetration dives, and any dive where light is essential for safety. The most important characteristics are lumen output (500 lumens minimum for recreational night diving, 1000 lumens or more for reduced visibility or exploration), burn time at the stated output (check that it covers your planned dive duration plus a safety margin), and a robust construction that won't fail from a drop on the boat deck. A Goodman handle that mounts on the back of your hand allows hands-free operation — the light points in the direction you are looking rather than in the direction your hand is pointing, which is an important practical advantage on longer dives.

Backup lights — small, clippable, always there
Every diver who night dives or penetrates overhead environments should carry a backup light — a compact, D-ring clippable light that provides enough illumination to navigate back to safety if the primary light fails. A backup should be instantly accessible without searching through BCD pockets. Clip it to a chest D-ring or BCD strap where it can be grabbed with either hand. Output of 100 to 300 lumens is sufficient for a backup — it is an emergency navigation tool, not a replacement primary. A backup that clips to a D-ring and stays there for every dive is worth more than a higher-output light buried in a pocket.

Marker and strobe lights — visibility and safety
A marker light is a small, constant-on light that clips to your tank, BCD, or regulator to mark your position at the surface and underwater — helping your buddy locate you in low visibility and making you visible to the boat crew during night diving. A strobe emits a repeating flash that is visible at a greater distance than a constant light and is particularly effective for marking your surface position or entry and exit point. A water-activated strobe turns on automatically when it contacts water — practical for marking your kit on a boat where you want it visible if you accidentally drop gear overboard.

Photo and video lights — beam angle over lumens
For underwater photo and video, beam angle matters more than raw lumen count. A narrow beam produces a distracting bright spot in video footage and uneven illumination in photos. Video lights need a wide flood beam of 100 degrees or more to evenly illuminate a subject at typical shooting distances of 0.5 to 1.5 metres. For still photography, dedicated underwater strobes provide a brief burst of high-output full-spectrum light that freezes motion and accurately restores colour at depth. A red focus light or continuous video light helps the camera autofocus without alerting shy fish to the presence of a bright light source.Check out our selection of underwater photo and video lights.